Buying your first motorhome is an exciting adventure, but it can also feel overwhelming. There are so many vehicle types, layouts, finance options, and buying routes to consider. For someone new to motorhomes, it can be hard to know where to start or what really matters.
This comprehensive guide to buying a motorhome will walk you through everything you need to know, from choosing the right type of motorhome to inspecting a used vehicle before purchase. We’ll cover the key questions first-time buyers should ask, like what to look for when buying a motorhome and when is the best time to buy one, without any complicated jargon. By the end, you’ll feel informed, confident and prepared to choose the right motorhome for your needs and budget - sending you well on your way to owning the perfect home on wheels for your travels.
Types of Motorhomes Explained
Before you think about layouts, budgets, or brands, it is important to understand the main types of motorhomes. Each type suits a different style of travel and level of experience.
Campervans (Class B Motorhomes)
Campervans are van conversions built within the original body of a panel van, such as a Fiat Ducato, Ford Transit, or Volkswagen Crafter. They are the smallest motorhomes available and are often the easiest for first-time buyers to drive.
Inside a campervan, space is compact but well designed. You will usually find a small kitchen, seating that converts into a bed, and sometimes a compact washroom. Storage is limited, and beds often need to be made up each night, but everything is within easy reach.
Campervans handle much like a large car or van. They fit into standard parking spaces, are easier to manoeuvre on narrow roads, and often cost less to insure and fuel. For couples, solo travellers, or weekend adventurers, campervans are a practical and less intimidating entry into motorhome ownership.
However, the limited space can feel restrictive on longer trips, especially in poor weather when you spend more time indoors. Campervans suit buyers who value flexibility, simplicity, and ease of driving over interior space.
Coachbuilt Motorhomes (Class C)
Coachbuilt motorhomes are the most popular choice for first-time buyers in the UK, and the most common type on the market. They use a van chassis and cab at the front, with a purpose-built living area added to the rear.
Coachbuilts offer more space than campervans and come in a wide range of layouts and sizes. They usually include a proper kitchen, a washroom with shower, and either a fixed bed or a lounge that converts into sleeping space.
There are two main subtypes of coachbuilt motorhomes:
Over-cab models have a large pod above the driver’s cab, usually containing a double bed or additional storage. This provides an additional sleeping space, which is ideal for families or anyone who needs extra sleeping space, although it makes the vehicle taller and slightly less aerodynamic.
Low-profile models remove the over-cab pod, creating a sleeker shape. These are popular with couples and smaller families. They offer better fuel efficiency and handling, while still providing generous living space.
Coachbuilt motorhomes strike a balance between comfort and driveability. They are large enough for extended trips but still manageable for most drivers, making them an excellent all-round option for a first motorhome.
A-Class Motorhomes (Class A)
A-Class motorhomes are the “big luxury liners” of the motorhome world. They are built entirely by the motorhome manufacturer, including the cab area. The result is a large, open interior with a panoramic windscreen and a more luxurious feel.
These motorhomes offer the most space, storage, and high-end features. They are designed for long-term touring and full-time use rather than occasional trips. Kitchens are larger, bathrooms are often split into separate shower and toilet areas, and lounges feel more like a small apartment.
The downside is size, cost, and weight. Many A-Class motorhomes exceed 3,500 kg, which can require a different driving licence. They are also wider and longer, which can be challenging on narrow roads or small campsites.
For first-time buyers, A-Class motorhomes are best suited to those who are confident drivers, have a higher budget, and plan to spend long periods living in their motorhome.
Driving Licence Rules and Weight Limits
One of the most important practical considerations when buying a motorhome is weight. In the UK, what you can legally drive depends on the motorhome’s Maximum Authorised Mass, often called MAM.
Motorhomes with a MAM of up to 3,500 kg can be driven on a standard Category B car licence. This applies to anyone who passed their driving test after 1 January 1997. Most campervans and many coachbuilt motorhomes fall into this category, which is why it is the most popular choice for first-time buyers.
Motorhomes weighing between 3,501 kg and 7,500 kg require a Category C1 licence. Drivers who passed their test before January 1997 often have this entitlement automatically. Others must take an additional driving test and medical examination.
Motorhomes over 7,500 kg require a full Category C licence. These are rare and not suitable for most leisure users.
Staying under 3,500 kg keeps things simple. It avoids extra licence requirements, makes the vehicle easier to drive, and often reduces running costs. When viewing motorhomes, always check the plated weight and consider payload. Payload is how much weight you can carry once the motorhome is empty, including passengers, luggage, water, and accessories.
New or Used Motorhomes for First-Time Buyers
A big decision when it comes to buying a motorhome is whether to buy new or used. Both options have advantages, and the right choice depends on budget, confidence, and long-term plans.
Buying a Used Motorhome
Used motorhomes are often the best starting point for first-time buyers. They cost less, suffer less depreciation, and allow you to get more space or a better layout for your budget. As a guide our used motorhomes tend to start at around £30,000.
A used motorhome also reduces pressure. Minor scuffs or wear feel less stressful, and you can learn what features you truly need without worrying about damaging a brand-new vehicle. In fact, first-time buyers are often advised to invest in a used motorhome initially, then upgrade once you have more experience and know exactly what you want. That way, you’ve had a chance to discover your must-haves (and pet peeves) without the high price of a brand-new vehicle. Many used motorhomes come with valuable extras such as awnings, solar panels, bike racks, and upgraded batteries, which would cost thousands to add later.
The key is condition. A well-maintained motorhome with service records can provide many years of reliable use. Careful inspection is essential, especially for signs of damp or water ingress.
Buying a New Motorhome
Buying new gives peace of mind. You receive a full manufacturer warranty, modern safety features, and the latest designs. You also know the full history of the vehicle from day one.
The main drawbacks are cost and depreciation. Our new motorhomes can start around the £50,000 mark. New motorhomes lose value quickly in the first few years. If you later decide the layout does not suit you, changing can be expensive.
Some first-time buyers choose nearly-new or ex-demonstrator models. These are a good middle ground, they are motorhomes that are a year or two old, maybe previously used as dealer demonstrators or show models. They are often lightly used, well equipped, and cheaper than factory orders while still feeling new. This can be a way to save money but still get a very fresh vehicle.
In the end, consider your budget and how confident you are in your needs. If you have a tighter budget or just want to dip your toes in, a used motorhome is a sensible way to start. If you have the funds and have done your homework to know this is the right motorhome for you, buying new can reward you with years of enjoyment and the latest comforts from day one.
Where to Buy a Motorhome
Where you buy your motorhome matters just as much as what you buy. As a first-time buyer, your two main routes are dealerships or private sellers, and each has its considerations.
Buying from a Dealership
For first-time buyers, dealerships offer reassurance. Large dealers will have a wide range of different motorhomes so that you can walk through and compare all in one place. Motorhomes are inspected, serviced, and usually sold with a warranty. Dealers handle paperwork, can arrange finance, and provide aftersales support if issues arise.
Buying from a reputable dealer reduces risk, especially for used motorhomes. You are far less likely to encounter hidden finance, major damp issues, or incomplete documentation.
Buying Privately
Private sales can offer lower prices, but they carry more risk. There is no warranty, and inspections are entirely your responsibility. Always conduct an HPI check, verify ownership, and never rush a decision.
Private buying suits experienced buyers. For first-time purchasers, it requires confidence and careful checks.
Motorhome Shows and Events
Motorhome shows are ideal for seeing a lot of new models and layouts in one place. Manufacturers and dealers often run special show pricing or promotions too. It’s fine to browse and even put down a deposit at a show if you find “the one”, but do ensure you’re dealing with a reputable seller. Shows are high-pressure in terms of temptation, so as a first-timer, do your research beforehand and set a budget, and don’t get swept up by a salesperson if you’re not ready.
What Is the Best Month to Buy a Motorhome?
Timing can affect motorhome price and availability. Many buyers ask what is the best month to buy a motorhome, and the answer usually depends on the season.
Autumn and winter are generally the best times to buy. From September through February, demand drops and supply increases. Many owners decide to sell or part-exchange their motorhome after the summer, to avoid storing it over winter or to upgrade to a new model, so used motorhomes flood the market in the autumn. Dealers may offer discounts to clear out current year stock as they prepare for next year’s models to arrive.
September is often considered the best month to buy a used motorhome, with attractive deals continuing through October, winter, and even into early spring
Spring and summer are peak seasons. Demand is high, prices are firmer, and choice can be limited. If you want a motorhome for summer travel, buying in winter or early spring gives better value.
Buying a Motorhome on Finance
Motorhomes aren’t cheap, but the good news is you don’t necessarily have to pay the full amount upfront. Many first-time buyers use finance to spread the cost of a motorhome over time. The most typical finance arrangements for motorhomes are Hire Purchase (HP) and Personal Contract Purchase (PCP), offered through dealerships or specialised lenders.
Hire Purchase allows you to pay a deposit, often 10% or more of the motorhome’s price, followed by fixed monthly payments over an agreed term. Once the final payment is made, you own the motorhome outright.
Personal Contract Purchase is more complex, but offers lower monthly payments. You pay a deposit and then a series of smaller monthly payments - however those do not cover the full cost of the motorhome. At the end there is a larger final payment, called a balloon payment or Guaranteed Future Value, if you wish to keep the motorhome. Alternatively at the end of the agreement you can opt not to pay the final payment and either hand the motorhome back to the finance company or part-exchange it for another motorhome.
Personal loans are another option, particularly for older used motorhomes. Always compare interest rates and total payable amounts. Consider insurance, servicing, storage, and fuel costs alongside finance payments.
Choosing The Right Motorhome Layout
The interior motorhome layout is a crucial factor in how well it works for your needs. The layout determines where the beds are, where the kitchen is, how the seating is arranged, and generally how you’ll live in the space. As a first-time buyer, it helps to think about your lifestyle and priorities, do you value a fixed bed? Need lots of seating for family games? Prefer a big bathroom?
Rear lounge layouts offer spacious daytime seating but require bed conversion at night. These are usually found in two berth models which are suited to couples. Fixed bed layouts provide convenience, with options such as French beds, island beds, and twin singles. Over-cab beds and drop-down beds add sleeping space without reducing living area within the motorhome.
Families often benefit from bunk beds or a rear bedroom with twin beds, while couples may prioritise a permanent bed and larger kitchen. Always check how many seatbelts are fitted, not just how many beds - you’ll want to ensure there are enough belted seats for everyone you’ll be regularly travelling with.
The best way to choose a layout is to walk through different options and imagine daily routines. If you’re really unsure, consider hiring a motorhome for a weekend similar to the layout you think you want, nothing beats real-life testing.
Questions To Ask When Buying a Motorhome
Buying a motorhome, especially used, is a bit like a detective game. You want to gather as much information as possible to ensure you’re making a sound purchase. Whether you’re at a dealership or dealing with a private seller, don’t be shy about asking questions. A trustworthy seller will be happy to give you details and proof. Here are some top questions to ask when buying a motorhome, along with some red flags to keep in mind:
“What is the service and maintenance history?” - You’ll want to know how well the motorhome has been cared for. Ask if they have documentation for engine servicing (oil changes, timing belt if applicable, etc.) and for habitation servicing (an annual check of the living area for damp, gas safety, etc.). A thick folder of receipts is a great sign. If it’s been serviced at regular intervals, that indicates a conscientious owner.
“Has it ever had any water ingress or damp problems?” - Damp is the big enemy of motorhomes. Be direct in asking if there have been leaks or repairs for water damage. Minor past issues that were fixed (with receipts to show professional repair) might be okay, but you want to know. Follow up by asking if you can see the latest damp report (some owners will have one from a service).
“How old are the tyres and leisure battery?” - Motorhome tyres often age-out before they wear-out due to lower mileage; they should ideally be replaced around 5-6 years old even if tread is okay. A seller who knows these details shows they’ve kept on top of maintenance. The leisure battery (the battery for the habitation area) typically lasts a few years; ask if it’s been replaced recently. Not a deal breaker if not, but helps you gauge upcoming expenses.
“What’s included in the sale?” - Especially with private sales, clarify what comes with the motorhome. Does it include the gas bottles, the mains hook-up cable, water hoses, leveling ramps, an awning, bike rack, etc.? These accessories can add up if you have to buy them yourself, so it’s good to know.
“Are there any known faults or things that need fixing?” - Give the seller a chance to be honest about any quirks or issues. Some might say “well, the hot water can be finicky” or “the fridge only works on electric, not gas.” It’s better to know now. A dealer should provide a pre-sale inspection report; a private seller’s honesty test is here.
“Can I see proof of ownership and identity?” - If private, ask to see the V5C registration document; the name on it should match the person selling (or if not, have a good explanation). This is your guard against stolen vehicles or outstanding finance. Also consider asking, “Is there any finance outstanding on it?” if buying privately an HPI check will reveal this anyway, but seeing how they respond can be telling.
“Why are you selling it?” - A classic question, and you might get a variety of answers: upgrading to a new one, decided motorhoming isn’t for them, need the money, etc. The content isn’t as important as gauging how they answer. Genuine downsizing or lifestyle changes are common.
“What kind of warranty or aftersales support is included?” - An important one to ask when buying from a dealer. Most dealers offer a 3-12 month warranty on used motorhomes. Clarify what it covers (engine/chassis, appliances, water ingress, etc.) and any conditions.
“Can I have a test drive?” - This is more of a step than a question, but essentially you’re asking permission to thoroughly examine the motorhome. A good seller will encourage this. Turn on the fridge, the heating, run the water pump, flush the toilet, make sure appliances actually work. Open and close all cupboards, windows, and skylights. If there’s an awning, ask to wind it out to inspect for tears or mechanism issues. During the test drive, check that you can get the seat in a comfortable position, and listen for any odd engine or coachwork rattles.
“Has it been modified in any way?” - Sometimes owners chip engines, add air suspension, extra lights, etc. Mods aren’t necessarily bad (some are great upgrades), but you want to know if anything deviates from stock. Especially ask about electrical mods or extra gas appliances.
Keep an ear out not just for answers but how the person answers. Do they seem knowledgeable about their motorhome? A private owner who has to think hard about basic questions might not have been very hands-on. A dealer salesperson who gives very generic answers might not know the specific history, ask if you can speak to the service manager or someone who checked the van if you want more detail.
Finally, trust your gut. If something feels off or a question isn’t answered to your satisfaction, either insist on clarity or be ready to walk away. There are plenty of motorhomes out there. It’s better to miss one and find another than to rush into a purchase with lingering doubts.
Motorhome Viewing Checklist
When you go to view a motorhome, it helps to have a systematic approach so you don’t miss any important checks. Below is a handy checklist of things to look at when viewing a motorhome for the first time:
Exterior Condition: Walk around the entire vehicle. Look for any obvious damage, dents, or cracks in the bodywork. Pay close attention to the roof line, corners, around window seals, and where the coachbuilt body meets the cab.
Windows and Seals: Open and close all windows, skylights, and the habitation door. Do they latch properly? Are the rubber seals intact and supple? Look for water staining or rippling on walls below windows (inside and out) which could mean past leaks.
Roof: If possible, get a look at the roof. Ensure there’s no obvious damage up there such as cracks around skylights or solar panel fixings. Many people forget the roof, but a stray tree branch can do harm.
Tyres and Wheels: Check the tyre tread depth and sidewall condition. Tyres should be free of cracks and have even wear. Remember to check the spare tyre too, if there is one.
Engine Bay: Even if you’re not a mechanic, pop the hood. Look at fluid levels - are they at proper levels and relatively clean? Any obvious leaks or a lot of grime could be a sign of poor maintenance. Check the cam belt history (if it has one), if it’s due for replacement (usually around 5 years or X0,000 miles), factor that in.
Underneath: If you can safely see under the motorhome, look for excessive rust on the chassis or exhaust. Some surface rust is normal on older vehicles, but large flaking chunks or any holes are bad news. Make sure things like the waste water tank and spare wheel are securely attached and not damaged.
Interior Damp Check: Use your nose first, does it smell fresh, or is there a damp odour. Feel for soft spots on walls and floors - especially in corners, around skylights, in the over-cab bed area and inside cabinets. You can invest in a damp meter to prod around. Readings over 20% moisture deserve further investigation. Don’t be shy to lift cushions and look in storage areas against the outer walls; often damp shows as discoloration or even just slightly spongy wall board.
Furniture and Fittings: Open every cupboard, drawer, and overhead locker. See that hinges are secure and not broken. Try the fold-out table if it has one, does it mount securely? Inspect the seating upholstery and mattress for signs of damp or mildew spots, and also just for condition. Check that seatbelts on travel seats pull out and retract properly and aren’t frayed.
Bed Assembly: If the motorhome’s beds are made from converting the lounge or dinette, ask the seller to demonstrate or show you how. Check that the cushions lay flat and that nothing is missing. A common issue is missing infill cushions or awkward bed setups so make sure you’re comfortable with the process. If there’s a drop-down bed, operate it. Ensure the mechanism is smooth and any safety nets are present.
Awning & Exterior Attachments: If a wind-out awning is fitted, have it wound out fully. Check the canvas for rips or mold, and that the support legs are intact. Look at any exterior lockers, do they lock and unlock easily? If there’s a bike rack, wiggle it to ensure it’s secure.
Engine and Drive Test: Finally, the test drive. Start the engine from cold if possible (a seller having it warmed up before you arrive could hide a cold start issue). Does it start easily? Any excessive smoke from exhaust on start or during driving? On the drive, listen for unusual noises (clunks, whistles, etc.). Test the brakes. Does it steer straight? If manual, does the clutch feel okay or bite very high? Also try reversing, since a lot of motorhomes have that characteristic reverse gear whine that’s often normal for heavy vehicles, but you want to ensure it goes into gear easily. If it has a reversing camera, check the monitor. While driving, have a passenger sit in the back to listen for rattles, some rattling is inevitable but you don’t want to hear major things sliding around that suggest broken fittings.
Appliances and Systems Checklist
Fridge: Does it power on? If it’s three-way (12V, 240V, gas), try to test on mains electric and gas if possible. Gas might take a few minutes to run (ensure the gas bottles are connected and turned on, with gas in them). Listen for the gas ignition clicking and feel if it starts to cool over time.
Cooker/oven/grill: Light each burner on the hob to see that they all function. Same for the oven/grill, they should ignite (you might need a lighter for some, or they have a spark ignition).
Heating and Hot Water: If it has a Truma or Whale heater (common brands), ask the owner to run the heating in gas mode and/or electric mode. Feel that warm air is coming out of the vents. For hot water, run a hot tap after the boiler’s been on a bit.
Water System: Turn on the water pump switch and run both cold and hot taps at the kitchen and bathroom sinks, and the shower. Check for good flow and that the pump pressurizes then stops (if it keeps running, there might be a leak or it’s not building pressure). Look under sinks for any drips while the pump is on.
Toilet: If it’s a cassette toilet, flush it. Open the cassette hatch on the outside, pull the cassette partway to inspect for any cracks or leaks. It’s okay if it’s not pristine, but it should be functional.
Electrical: Test ceiling lights, reading lights and the control panel. If there’s a leisure battery gauge, is the battery holding charge? Also, if mains hookup is possible at the viewing (e.g., at a dealer or if the seller can plug into their house), test a 240V socket with an appliance or tester. Also test 12V items like the extractor fan, TV antenna booster, etc., if present.
After the test drive it’s important to recheck the engine bay. Are there any fresh oil drips on the ground? And check under the motorhome for any fluid leaks that might have appeared.
Check the paperwork, ensure the VIN number on the chassis - usually bottom of windshield or under the bonnet - matches the one on the V5C logbook. Ensure any MOT certificates or service documents correlate with the current mileage and dates.
This seems like a lot, but a thorough check can save you from headaches later. If the seller watches you doing all this and doesn’t flinch, that’s a good sign. If buying from a dealer, they might have done many of these checks already, but it’s still worth doing your own verification.
For peace of mind, some buyers also pay for a professional pre-purchase inspection, especially on expensive motorhomes. The AA and RAC offer such services, or specialist motorhome engineers. They can do a detailed damp test and mechanical check. It might cost a few hundred pounds, but for a major purchase it can be worth it.
You’re On Your Way To Buying Your First Motorhome
Buying your first motorhome is a major decision, but with the right knowledge, it becomes an enjoyable and rewarding process. This guide to buying a motorhome has covered the essential steps, from understanding vehicle types and layouts to knowing what to look for when buying a motorhome and choosing the best time to buy.
Take your time, view multiple options, and focus on what suits your lifestyle rather than what looks impressive on paper. With careful planning and a clear budget, your first motorhome can open the door to years of memorable travel and freedom on the road.
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